Something So Perfect at Eataly
July 15, 2011 at 7:22 AM | Posted in Food, New York City | Leave a commentTags: Eataly, Mario Batali
Eataly, the Palace for Paisans, the Forum of Food and all things Italian, the latest expression of Mario Batali’s huge appetite to feed us, must be physically experienced. You must walk through the aisles of olive oil, segmented with maps and explanations, the many restaurants that seem a dream as you turn now one corner and now the next, the stalls of mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns, the gelato with metal covers that you just assume is the way it is done in the old country and more than you could think of, if you had all month to think.
My hymn, though, is not of Eataly but of Prosciutto di San Danieli. It is ballyhood on the menu at the I Salumi I Formaggi outpost. It is beyond anything my wife and I have ever had: aged yet fresh, more red than its more well-known brother from Parma. We had it with mozzarella made there and good bread that we bathed in Ligurian olive oil — but these were mere hand-maidens in service to the young nobleman, Danieli.
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